1/18

Bottega Veneta pre-fall 2020.

The pre-fall collections (a precursor to the autumn/winter ready-to-wear shows) are the unsung hero of the fashion calendar. Bold statement, I know, but hear me out. Pre-fall drops are typically larger than the already sizable mainline ready-to-wear lines and they provide strong – sometimes experimental – hints as to the fashion mood yet to come. So, what are we obsessing over for pre-fall 2020?

At Bottega Veneta (where Pepto Bismol-pink and fringing appeared in spades), Daniel Lee debuted his largest collection yet, which is very good news for anyone who’s experienced an online bunfight while trying to get their hands on a pair of the British designer’s highly coveted shoes. Gucci used their pre-fall lookbook as an opportunity to spotlight legendary model and activist Bethann Hardison. Plus, there were plenty of new ideas to style up a straightforward T-shirt or the vintage blue jeans that you already own (which we’ll be talking about a lot over the next few weeks). Here are the six biggest pre-fall fashion trends to know now.

Fresh fringing

Let’s rewind a little. Back before the faux-ho (sorry, boho) era the early Noughties (when fringing became a byword for fast fashion), leash-like tassel jackets were a marker of rarefied craftsmanship. For 2020, the ultra-clean Western mood has been reinterpreted at Stella McCartney, Bottega Veneta and Michael Kors, where the elegant, architectural beauty of a belted autumnal coat or evening dress benefit from resplendent, longline fringing.

2/18

Michael Kors pre-fall 2020.

3/18

Attico pre-fall 2020.

4/18

Bottega Veneta pre-fall 2020.

Cerulean meets electric blue

Perhaps it’s all of those subliminally addictive social media app icons, but cerulean – that oft-memed shade, which as Anne Hathaway discovered in The Devil Wears Prada, fashion takes very seriously – is certainly having a moment for late summer 2020. As is azure and ultra-saturated tones of cobalt (seen at Balmain). Opt for the unfettered impact of full-look blue and heaps of texture. Gucci’s opulent sequin shift or Fendi’s remixed prairie dress are particularly moodboard worthy.

5/18

Fendi pre-fall 2020.

6/18

Stella McCartney pre-fall 2020.

7/18

Balmain pre-fall 2020.

Faux exotics

While fur has most definitely slipped out of fashion, the industry’s love affair with exotic graphics hasn’t. If Rosetta Getty, Marc Jacobs and Gucci have anything to do with it, a montage of mock-zebra, leopard and cow-hide prints are now the ultimate marker of good taste. Wear them with attitudinal gloves and enormous sunglasses to channel the so-bad-it’s-good taste of a modern day Veruschka. 

8/18

Rosetta Getty pre-fall 2020.

9/18

Gucci pre-fall 2020.

10/18

Cecilie Bahnsen pre-fall 2020.

Modern history

The good news is that the theatrical, balloon-sleeve dress isn’t about to retire any time soon (look to Khaite, Brock Collection and Cecilie Bahnsen for further proof). Elevate the romantic mood with homespun embroidery and layered knits. Pre-fall 2020 doesn’t hold back on retro-inspired drama, only this time it’s about fiercely modern abbreviated hemlines and high-impact sheer organza.

11/18

Khaite pre-fall 2020.

12/18

Jil Sander pre-fall 2020.

13/18

Chanel pre-fall 2020.

Fade out

The move away from top-to-toe beige has officially begun. From Chanel’s sleek silk evening wear, to Proenza Schouler’s flawless cream shirt dress, the 24/7 wardrobe concept just took a fairly high-maintenance turn. Wrap up in Jil Sander’s eiderdown coat and – we’ve said it dozens of times before – brainstorm ways to befriend your local dry cleaner, ASAP.

14/18

Proenza Schouler pre-fall 2020.

15/18

Gucci pre-fall 2020.

16/18

Jil Sander pre-fall 2020.

Trench dressing

Another pre-fall trend to file under ‘already own it, just reinspire me’ is the monochrome trench coat. The topline? It’s not only about heritage beige. The forever-classics spotted at Jil Sander, Bottega Veneta and Proenza Schouler showcase the longevity of bubblegum pink, midnight black and oxblood in place of the trench coat’s traditional palette. Plus, note the fresh pre-fall styling. Preppy ankle socks (spied at Salvatore Ferragamo) or Givenchy’s elegantly crocheted pumps are set to add a new lease of energy to your wardrobe staple.

17/18

Salvator Ferragamo pre-fall 2020.

18/18

Proenza Schouler pre-fall 2020.