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A blockbuster fashion month offers up a fresh moodboard of new season trends. From the stars of New York’s downtown scene, to the luxury powerhouses of Paris – here’s Vogue’s recap of the top 10 trends that will dominate in 2020.
The trend: visible underpinnings
Where we’ve seen it: Givenchy, Rokh, Lanvin, Loewe, Mugler, Chloé, Versace
What you need to know: a wave of early Nineties bodycon returned to the spring/summer 2020 catwalks with corseted bodices at Chloé, Rokh and Versace. Casey Cadwallader’s epic spring/summer 2020 show at Mugler brought us Bella Hadid in a buttock-revealing bodystocking, with the American designer delivering a unifying message on body-confidence. Bolder still was the array of upscale bra-tops at Loewe and Givenchy, which put that most feminine of objects in the global spotlight.
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The trend: pencil skirts
Where we’ve seen it: Versace, Miu Miu, Gucci, Bottega Veneta
What you need to know: Gucci’s Alessandro Michele may be best known for his red-carpet worthy flounce and decadent embellishment, but the feted creative director told a new story for spring/summer 2020. Neat pencil skirts are now the order of the day across the luxury Italian fashion houses, where minimalist iterations (also seen at Bottega Veneta and Gucci) are recasting the ladylike look as part of an ultra wearable, modern uniform.
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The trend: draping
Where we’ve seen it: JW Anderson, Atlein, Lanvin, Oscar de la Renta
What you need to know: the revival of goddess-like draping (spotted first at NYFW on the catwalks at Proenza Schouler, Sies Marjan and Oscar de la Renta) offers an artful reboot of the springtime dress. In London, JW Anderson’s fluid, form-grazing designs were a unanimous hit among fashion editors. While in Paris, the look belonged to Atlien, where label founder Antonin Tron’s sinuous spring/summer 2020 designs came with a sustainable kickback: Vogue reported that 60 per cent of the fabric used was deadstock, sourced from mills and factories across Italy.
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The trend: white shirt 4.0
Where we’ve seen it: Burberry, The Row, Bevza, Maryam Nassir Zadeh
What you need to know: halfway through NYFW, Apple announced the launch of the iPhone 11 from the glowing stage of the Steve Jobs Theater in Cupertino, California, to an audience of global tech and fashion journalists. The brand’s desire to create a perfectly executed product that offers everyday utility and luxury in one wasn’t lost on designers or showgoers. The FROW that fell head over heels for the flawless iterations of the unisex shirt on The Row’s spring/summer 2020 runway (and later Burberry’s neat design at LFW) are likely to be the same demographic that will be carrying the iPhone 11 immediately after its release.
This new shirting doesn’t boast frills or gimmicks — indeed, it doesn’t boast at all. (The same goes for Celine spring/summer 2020’s no-nonsense pinstripe shirt). It’s not meant to be styled asymmetrically and there’s conspicuously no hint of embellishment. Consider this your most user-friendly investment piece.
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The trend: lacework
Where we’ve seen it: Loewe, Alexander McQueen, Isabel Marant, Valentino
What you need to know: unlikely as it may sound, the age-old craft of open-web lace making is leading one of spring/summer 2020’s freshest trends. At Loewe, creative director Jonathan Anderson spearheaded the look from head-to-toe, with a delicately spun, co-ordinating trouser and dress duo. Likewise at Isabel Marant, the peekaboo fabric represented refined, modern-day bohemia that was anything but antique.
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The trend: Seventies optimism
Where we’ve seen it: Louis Vuitton, Maryam Nassir Zadeh, Paco Rabanne
What you need to know: Nicolas Ghesquière’s soulful Louis Vuitton spring/summer 2020 show ended Paris Fashion Week with a standing ovation. The creative director’s signature mix of Seventies tailoring and electrifying futuristic detailing hit a euphoric note – think mesmeric print blouses in acid hues and trim trouser suiting for an uncompromisingly optimistic outlook. The mood was shared in New York. “I was really excited about the Seventies safari theme of autumn, so I’m carrying that on a bit, but I’m going to fuse it with chic mermaids,” Maryam Nassir Zadeh told Vogue in the days before her spring/summer 2020 show.
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The trend: hot shorts
Where we’ve seen it: Chanel, Dior, Hermès, Isabel Marant
What you need to know: Virginie Viard’s first solo ready-to-wear show at Chanel put a jeunesse spin on the classic house codes, reviving the hotpant. The message from the catwalks at Hermès, Isabel Marant and Dior is: ditch the cycling short now in favour of an ultra-abbreviated hemline.
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The trend: power shoulders
Where we’ve seen it: Agnona, Balenciaga, Balmain, Mugler
What you need to know: over the past few seasons, a stream of distinctly modern versions of the Eighties-style blazer have revolutionised the appeal of the top-heavy silhouette, which is now a street-style favourite. Thanks to Balenciaga’s eye-popping spring/summer 2020 colour palette, it’s easy to see why the ‘extra’ look hasn’t lost any of its shine. Just add dark glasses and square-toe ankle boots.
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The trend: crochet
Where we’ve seen it: Bottega Veneta, Marine Serre, Celine, Fendi, Missoni
What you need to know: the biggest names in Italian fashion (as well as next generation Parisian star Marine Serre) have rewritten their definition of modern glamour for spring/summer 2020 to include a handcrafted touch. Bottega Veneta, Fendi and Missoni presented some of next year’s most stylish silhouettes in homespun yarn. Unpretentious as luxury crochet may be, it certainly isn't made for the beach. Let these open knits instead inspire your upscale office or cocktail-wear come spring.
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The trend: trench coats
Where we’ve seen it: Bottega Veneta, Burberry, JW Anderson, Balenciaga, Junya Watanabe
What you need to know: Burberry creative director Riccardo Tisci’s ingenious retake on conservative British style can already be felt on the front row and among his legions of celebrity fans (both Rosalía and Hunter Schafer were in London to catch his spring/summer 2020 catwalk show). How will we wear our gabardine for spring? Slashed to reveal a corseted mini dress, or paired with bare legs to show off sculptural mules (as seen at Bottega Veneta).
Key Words
Fashion trend, Fashion show, Season wearing
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